Two Days in Bukhara: Discovering the Desert Oasis City
If you’re in the middle of planning a trip to Uzbekistan right now and you’re here to figure out the best way to spend two days in Bukhara, then just know that I am very jealous. And that you’ve come to the right place. Bukhara is one of the three cities that usually makes it onto the Uzbekistan “Golden Triangle” itineraries (alongside Tashkent and Samarkand), and it’s a jewel of a city.
I’ve gone into more depth on the things to do in Bukhara, including local legends and snippets of history in a separate post that you can read here.
For this post, I’ll be focusing on how to make the most of two days in Bukhara. I’ve written this post assuming you’ll be spending two nights / two days in Bukhara, and added an extra section at the end for travellers who have a bit longer to explore this oasis city.
Two Days in Bukhara: At a Glance
I’ve kept this itinerary light on detail so you can skim it on the go. To get the full stories behind the landmarks, check out my sights of Bukhara post here.
- Main train station:Â Kogon Station, about 20-30 minutes outside the Old City. Use YandexGo for taxis.
- Best Base: Stay within the Old City walls for maximum Silk Road vibes and easy access to all the main sights. I recommend the Safiya Hotel.
- Top 3 Sights: Po-i-Kalyan, The Ark Fortress, and the Samanid Mausoleum.
Is Two Days in Bukhara Enough?
When I visited Bukhara, I stayed for two nights in the gorgeous Safiya Hotel. For me, Bukhara was my favourite stop in Uzbekistan, which surprised me as it had been Samarkand and Khiva that I’d been most excited about.
The city is smaller and less imposing than its famous neighbours, which is part of its charm. When you wander around the old town, you can feel the history in every step, and it’s not hard to imagine what life was like in the days of the caravanserai.
Two days in Bukhara can be jam packed if you want to see everything, but if you plan it well, it is enough to get around the main sights. If you’re someone who values slow travel, you could of course stay longer, or tack on extra experiences and trips around the city (and I’ll link some tours in the last section).
If you’re planning a wider trip around Uzbekistan, however, then two days in Bukhara is enough to see the highlights, and not spill into the other cities you’ve got on your trip.
Day 1: The Old City and The Golden Hour
The focus for your first day in Bukhara is settling in and seeing the architectural icons of the Old City, with a couple of stops at some great restaurants.
Morning
Arrival to Bukhara
Arriving into Bukhara, the first thing on your mind is likely going to be finding your hotel. If you’re a few hours ahead of check-in time, most hotels will allow you to leave your bags there until you come back later on in the day.
If you’ve arrived by train, you’ll need to get a taxi into the city. I recommend having an e-sim to stay connected, and using the YandexGo app.
Lunch
Once you’ve gotten settled, it’s time to grab some lunch. The Kukeldash Restaurant is beautiful, and right by Lyabi-Hauz. It’s a mostly outdoor restaurant, and you’ll be seated in the gardens under the awnings or gazebos. It’s got a wide ranging menu, including some limited veggie options, and it’s a great spot to sit for a moment and soak in the fact you’re actually in Bukhara.
Afternoon
The Lyabi-Hauz Landmarks
The Lyabi-Hauz is the heart of Bukhara, and if you’re having lunch in Kukeldash, you’re already there. Its central point is a plaza built around one of the few remaining ancient hauz (ponds), and it is to Bukhara what a Piazza Bra is to Verona.
After lunch, head out to see the Khanqah of Nodir Devonbegi. The khanqah was essentially a Sufi monastery, and this one was built in 1620 by the vizier of Bukhara. Inside, you’ll find a museum displaying handicrafts and applied arts. Entrance is around 20,000 UZS.
Next to the Khanqah, you’ll find Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah. For now, you’re just going to admire it from the outside, as the inside is best seen during one of their nightly dinner shows featuring local, traditional dancers. This madrasah was originally planned as a hotel, but was quickly converted into a madrasah after a subtle nudge from the Khan of Bukhara. Because the building was originally meant to be a hotel, its artwork is unusual for Islamic architecture, featuring birds and lambs.
If you’re into photography, Lyabi-Hauz is a photogenic dream. This is where you’ll get some great shots of the historical landmarks of Bukhara, as well as images of regular daily life in the city.
Exploring the Trading Domes
After Lyabi-Hauz, start walking through the ancient shopping streets and make your way to Toqi Telpak Furushon, the hat seller’s dome. In Bukhara, you’ll see a few of these trading domes. They’re kind of like ancient malls, with each one specialised in a certain kind of goods. They were built with high, domed ceilings that allow the air to circulate, kind of like an organic air conditioner – essentially for traders spending long days in a desert city.
Today, you’ll still find they respect their history and true to its name, you’ll find plenty of hats on sale at Toqi Telpak Furushon. You’ll also find stalls selling souvenirs and tourist goods like carpets and the famous Bukhara scissors, shaped like birds.
Even if you’re not in the market for hats, the trading domes are a quintessential part of Bukhara’s history and culture, and they’re well worth a walk around.
Evening
Sunset at Po-i-Kalyan
Just before sunset, make your way to the city’s crown jewel. Po-i-Kalyan is where you’ll find the Kalan mosque, the Mir-i-Arab Madrasah and the Kalan Minaret. This is the part of the city that ends up on postcards and in tourist guides.
Being there at Golden Hour means you can appreciate the sandy coloured brickwork as it starts to turn gold in the light of the sinking sun.
Dinner at The Terrace
Once you’ve wandered around the Po-i-Kalyan and appreciated the centuries of history before you, it’ll be time for dinner. Right across from the complex, you’ll find The Terrace Restaurant. It’s a lovely, cosy restaurant with both indoor and outdoor seating, ideal to watch the sun finish its descent over Bukhara.
They’ve got a menu with a ton of variety, and even dedicated vegan and vegetarian dishes – not always a given!
Day 2: The Dark History and Desert Monuments
On day 2 of your two days in Bukhara, you’ll already have started to feel like you’ve got the lay of the land a bit. Yesterday’s itinerary took you around the Old Town, wandering through the trading domes and the winding alleys. Today, you’re going to see some of the more unusual history of the city. I’ve written about all of the places in more depth on my things to see in Bukhara post here.
Morning
The Ark of Bukhara
Because Bukhara is a desert city, it gets hot during the day, especially if you’re travelling in summer. After breakfast, head out early to the Ark of Bukhara before you get to the peak heat of the day.
The Ark is the ancient citadel of Bukhara, and was once the residence of the Emirs. It opens at about 9am, and I’d recommend getting there for opening time if you can. Entrance fee is about 60,000 UZS.
The Juma Mosque
The Juma Mosque is inside the Ark’s walls, so it’s included in your entrance fee. It was built in the 17th century, and was originally the monarch’s official place of worship. Inside the mosque, you’ll find a small museum display, while on the outside, you can appreciate the beautiful wood carving and craftsmanship.
The Bug Pit at Zindon Prison
Located just a short walk behind the Ark, the Zindon (which literally means “dungeon”) was the Emir’s high-security prison. Entrance here is often included in the price of the Ark ticket, or on its own it’s about 20,000 UZS.
It’s not somewhere you can get lost in for hours, but its history is fascinating, and dark – I’ve gone into more depth on some of the stories here.
Bolo Hauz Mosque
The Bolo Hauz Mosque is one of the most beautiful spots in the city. It’s right opposite the Ark, so you won’t have far to walk once you’re done with the citadel and the prison. Its name means “above the pool”, referring to the artificial pond in front of it.
It’s still a working mosque, so if you visit at prayer times, you’ll only be able to admire it from the outside.
Lunch and Park Walk
After your morning exploring some of the ancient sites of the city, it’s time to get out of the heat and into the shade. Grab a quick bite near the Ark, or some street food if you spot any you fancy, and head into Samonids Recreation Park.
Afternoon
Samanid Mausoleum
Visit the Samanid Mausoleum, and admire its “wicker basket” style brickwork. You’ll also have the opportunity to visit Chashma-Ayub (Job’s Well) right next to it.
The entrance fee here is about 15,000 UZS.
Shukov Water Tower
As the sun begins to set or you feel yourself winding down for the day, head back towards the Ark to climb (or take the lift) up the Shukhov Tower. It’s a great way to see the scale of the citadel walls from above, and look out over this beautiful city.
This will cost you about 40,000 UZS.
Evening
A Drink at The Old Barn
This was one of my favourite finds in Bukhara, as I’ve written about before. The Old Barn is a Soviet-style cellar bar that specialises in local craft beers. It’s the perfect place to drop into for a pre-dinner drink.
The Dinner Show
For your final night, head back to the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah, the one you admired from the outside yesterday. Here, they put on a nightly folk dance and fashion show, alongside dinner. If you’ve got any dietary requirements, let them know very early. This is an experience you’ll need to book in advance, and you can book tickets here.
Day 3: The Farewell
Breakfast and Packing
As your two days in Bukhara come to a close, your final morning is likely going to be given over to packing and grabbing a last breakfast in the hotel. If you’re travelling onwards by train, the main train station is a bit outside the old town, so do make sure to give yourself enough time to travel there.
One Last Silk Road Stroll
If you’ve got time before your onward journey, take one last stroll around the winding streets of the old town, or pay a last visit to somewhere you really loved. If there were any photos you meant to take, but didn’t, now’s a good time to get the camera out in the morning light.
As you say farewell to your two days in Bukhara, hopefully they’ve left you with wonderful experiences and memories.
Best Bukhara Tours
While there’s plenty to see in two days in Bukhara on your own, I’m a big fan of booking tours, especially with local guides and experts. Having someone who truly knows the city means you get to see a side of it that you just can’t from looking at the outside of madrasahs.
As beautiful as all of Uzbekistan is, if you don’t fully know the stories behind what you’re seeing, it’s hard to fully appreciate them. I’ve done my best to go into more detail in my things to do in Bukhara post, and even though it ended up way longer than I’d intended, there’s still more to discover.
If you’re planning on booking some tours in Bukhara, these are the ones I recommend:
- Walking Tour of the City
- I love a walking tour, and this one will take you around to some of the main sights I’ve listed in this post. This is a great Day 1 type activity to help you get the lay of the land.
- Private Walking Tour
- This private tour is very reasonably priced, and the tour will be just for you or whoever you’re travelling with. The beauty of private tours is that you can often customise the itinerary – if you already have somewhere you’re dying to see, or you want to linger a little longer over a beautiful building, they’re usually happy to adapt.
- Woodcarving Masterclass
- You know all those intricately carved elm pillars adorning the mosques around Bukhara? This experience will introduce you to a master wood carver, and even includes a tour of the city.
Side Quests: Extending Your Stay in Bukhara
If you’ve got longer than two days in Bukhara and want to explore further than the main highlights of the city, these are some experiences that are a great way to delve deeper into Uzbekistan and its culture:
- Suzani Embroidery Workshop
- As you’ve wandered around Bukhara, you’ll definitely have seen Suzani embroidery around the trading domes. This experience brings you to a Suzani village, where you’ll meet the women behind the stitches and even try it out for yourself.
- An Overnight Yurt Stay
- This tour takes you out to a yurt camp for the night, with a visit to Aydarkul Lake. It also ties in a visit to the Gijduvan Ceramics Workshop.
- Overnight Desert Tour and Yurt Camp
- This tour takes you out to see the famous Kyzlkum desert that surrounds Bukhara and will have you sleeping under the stars in a yurt camp.
- Mountain Village Visit, ending in Samarkand
- If you haven’t been to Samarkand yet, and you want to tie it in with a visit to the Nuratau Mountains, this tour includes a village stay and will drop you off in Samarkand
