Last September, my husband and I were planning to cycle Japan's famous Shimanami Kaido route. Given that my cycling prowess is more "London on a Lime Bike" than "Tour de France", I knew that we'd both probably want something very chill immediately after the cycle, and we settled on a...

Cycling the Shimanami Kaido is an amazing adventure, and it's one better started when you're well rested. While plenty of people travel to Onomichi early in the morning of their cycle, it's far more common to spend the night before in this pretty little seaside town. When I did my...

If you've had sake in a bar in Tokyo, you'll be used to neon lights or the cosy third-space vibe of places like Sake Market. For sake tasting in Kyoto, however, it's a completely different atmosphere. Kyoto is famous for its gentle, traditional approach to respecting its history, and the...

If you've already read my guide to finding a vegan friendly ryokan in Hakone, you'll know I take absolute joy in finding places that cater to vegan travellers. Ever since that post went live, it's my #1 most visited page on this site, so clearly I'm not alone in trying...

If you've already read my guide to Vegan-Friendly Ryokans in Hakone, you'll already know that you can get a great, multi-course plant based feast in your guesthouse. But if you're only in Hakone for the day, or you're skipping the ryokan and experiencing the onsen town on a budget, you'll...

A trip to Hakone is a popular part of many Japan itineraries, and for good reason: You get to see a beautiful town, stay in a traditional ryokan, get a glimpse of Mount Fuji, and see some gorgeous nature - and all within a short distance of Tokyo. But what...

On my first trip to Japan, I spent two nights in a ryokan in Hakone, and it's still one of my Japan highlights. Whether you're getting the full ryokan experience or just doing a day trip from Tokyo to Hakone, spending one day in Hakone is a wonderful part of...

Everyone knows the stereotype of an Awful Tourist: the loud, boorish figure causing a pile up at the bottom of an escalator, dragging too many bags into rush hour public transport, or speaking English really loudly in the hopes that it magically translates into the local language. Having lived in...

At a Glance: Motoyu Kansuiro Location: Tonosawa, Hakone (14 mins walk from Hakone-Yumoto station). Vibe: 400 years of history, registered cultural property, river views. Vegan Friendly? Yes, but requires advance notice. Booking Link here When I was planning our honeymoon to Japan, I found myself knees deep in blog posts,...

In my earlier post, a guide to the JR Pass, I was pretty upfront with my opinion on "is the JR pass worth it?". But now I want to put my money where my mouth is and show you what the maths looked like for both of my trips to...