How to Book the Sleeper Train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai

Note: This post was originally written on my previous blog and reflects the process as of July 2024. I’ve updated it slightly where needed, but always double-check official sources when booking!

I have just spent the last 45 minutes trying to book a Bangkok to Chiang Mai sleeper train. I booked this a month in advance, but knew I’d forget some of the details if I don’t write them down now.

First things first, I found this post by Aga on the Run incredibly helpful in figuring out the process. She advises against using the site 123go.com, and reviews on Trustpilot and elsewhere aren’t great either.

Here’s what I did to book:

How to book:

1. Download a VPN. I used CyberGhost, which has a free 24 hour trial, no credit card required. Once it’s running, change the server to Thailand – the Thai Railways website doesn’t always work properly outside of the country
2. Go to the Thai Railway website, set the language to English or use Google Translate
3. Create an account. Make sure you toggle the tab to “Foreigner” when signing up. Log in.
4. Search for your train. For Bangkok, enter Krung Thep Aphiwat in the Origin box, and Chiang Mai in the Destination box. (Krung Thep Aphiwat is Bangkok’s central train station. If you just enter “Bangkok”, you won’t see any trains to Chiang Mai.)
5. Choose the right train. Once you see the list of trains, choose the 18:40 Special Express CNR – it’s newer than the one leaving at 20:05.
6. Pick your seat. Choose your coach and your berth. The lower berths are a little bit more expensive than the upper, but they’re more comfortable
7. Payment. Mastercard did not work for me (no real error message either), but my Revolut Visa went through with no problems.
8. Ticket. You’ll get a ticket emailed to you. Print this out and bring it with you – they reportedly don’t accept digital copies.

Things to know:

• Translation is spotty. Not everything translates on the English version of the website. There are a few options for the second class carriage: General passengers, disabled passengers, women and children. I copy-pasted the text into translate to make sure I was booking a ticket for the appropriate option.
• Booking a lower berth. The lower berths (bottom bunks) are the fastest to book out. I refreshed the page/went back and forth a few times and found that the available berths kept changing. You might have luck trying this.
• Book early. The further out you book, the more likely you are to get the berth you want. I booked about 30 days in advance, and found that there were still a lot of other passengers already booked in
• Payment quirks. The site doesn’t seem to take Mastercard, at least from a UK bank account anyway. My Revolut Visa did work.
• Carriage details. The page will show you an icon of the passengers booked into different berths, and whether they are male, female, or a monk. There is a separate carriage for women and children.
• Air conditioning. Look for “Air coach” if you want air conditioning (I’d recommend this option). “Fan coach” means… well, just a fan and Thailand’s heat!

Summary:

It takes a little patience, but the process wasn’t too bad once I figured out the VPN trick (and kudos to Aga on the Run for that tip), and how the website works. Travelling by train is such a great way to see a bit more of Thailand, and it’s popular with travellers. The bunks are surprisingly comfortable – keep your eyes out for a post on the journey in the future!